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After the Bottling

Vine Times, Apr 2001
by Vicki Buonocore

Brand new million-dollar homes mixed with long-established ranches dot the canyon road as you head for Chouinard Vineyards in Castro Valley's Palomares area on the Livermore Valley Wine Trail.

After a wet winter, the grass is a vibrant green, and the rolling hills are jeweled with California Golden Poppies. Suddenly, six miles south on Palomares Road sits a converted red barn--Chouinard's winery is on the bottom and their tasting room is on top.

In this stop of wooded hillsides and vineyards, the red barn stands out and makes you wonder what's up those steps and is it worth the trip?

You bet it is. Overwhelming charm and warm hospitality make Chouinard's tasting room unique and memorable. In fact, this is a dream come true for owners George and Caroline Chouinard. They started their vineyard in 1978 and established the winery in 1985.

The tasting room walls are covered now with ribbons for some of the best wine in California, including a Best of California Golden Bear award for their 1993 Zinfandel.

Gift items fill the room adjacent to a beautiful bar, where often you can find winemaker Damian Chouinard or George Chouinard greeting guests and happily talking about their wines while they pour.

They like to start their guests off with a taste of champagne - it's their specialty.

Damian Chouinard is an enology graduate from California State University, Fresno. He spent some time as an apprentice in the Champagne district of France before bringing his knowledge and love for it back home. "We specialize in the production of small lots of wines with an emphasis on unique styles and a broad range of varietals from our own vineyards and select vineyards in Livermore, Monterey, Paso Robles, and the North Central Coast appellations," said Chouinard.

He produces about 4,000 cases per year. His varieties include Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Johannisberg Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewurztraminer, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and a fruit variety--Granny Smith Apple Wine--made with 100-percent Granny Smith apples.

The Granny Smith Apple Wine is not to be missed when visiting Chouinard. It is an off-dry table wine that captures the crispness of this delicious apple variety. For Chouinard, it is a unique and award-winning varietal. According to the winemaker, "It's delicious served with pork dishes."

Chouinard's California Champagne is a Brut (Charmat) with lots of fruitiness. The aroma is fresh pears with a hint of toastiness. It's a well-balanced wine with tart acidity, wonderful green apple flavors, and a lasting creamy mouth-feel of a Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay blend.

Also highlighted in the tasting room are two 1999 white wines, a Napa Chardonnay that is dominated by tropical fruit and vanilla flavors and a Monterey Chenin Blanc that is a crisp pear and apple flavored off-dry Chenin from Monterey Grapes.

On the red side, the vineyard produces a Chouinard Red Wine that is "our latest red table wine," according to Chouinard. It is a blend of Zin, Barbera, and Pinot Noir with a jammy, strawberry flavor and hints of black licorice. It has a nice, crisp finish.

A 1997 Lodi Zinfandel is featured. It has won a Silver medal in a San Francisco Bay competition. This 100-year-old vineyard from Mohr-Fry Ranches in Lodi annually produces a ripe, concentrated wine with strawberry and boysenberry aromas and sweet jammy fruit flavors.

The 1997 San Francisco Bay Cabernet Sauvignon is from "the '97 vintage from our estate Cab and has intense varietal characteristics, black cherry flavors, rich color, and good tannins," according to Chouinard. "This is the first vintage bearing our new San Francisco Bay appellation on the label."

A 1998 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon has absorbed many complexities from extended aging in small American oak barrels. Flavors of coffee, toffee, and toasty oak combine with the wonderful peppery black cherry flavors and aromas. The flavorful medium-bodied Cab has deep color and ample tannins to allow five to 10 years aging, according to the winemaker.

Finally, a 1998 Lodi Alicante Bouschet is a deep concentrated red wine with rich black cherry and pomegranate flavors and aromas nicely balanced with oak and char flavors from aging in small barrels.

On the dessert table, Chouinard offers a 1998 Paso Robles Orange Muscat. Chouinard described it as a "Vin Glace wine with intense orange, orange blossom-honey aromas. The 8-percent residual sugar is balanced with crisp acidity and refreshing citrus and zest flavors.

While sipping and chatting in the tasting room, step out to a balcony where there is a wonderful view of the vineyards. There are currently 4.5 acres, but Chouinard is expanding the vineyard by another 2.5 acres to a total of seven. If time permits, the winemaker is happy to give a tour of the winery, which features French and American Oak and refrigerated stainless steel barrels.

The winery is a strong supporter of the arts, often hosting events featuring food, history, and nature. From April through June, Chouinard will host wild flower walks, picnicking, hiking, and an Indian Artifacts and Historical exhibit. The owners said spring is a perfect time to walk to the top of the Walpert Ridge or along the stream to enjoy the green hills and woods on their 100-acre woodland and vineyard site.

The Palomares Canyon was a summer home to the Ohlone Indians and so the winery now features an exhibit of stonecraft and baskets to honor the rich culture of these California natives. Historical photos and artifacts show more recent colorful inhabitants of the Canyon, as well.

Save Memorial Day weekend for tasting at Chouinard. Roger Kardinal will be there, singing timeless rock classics. This event will kick off the winery's summer Sundays of Music in the Vineyards. San Francisco Bay Area artists will be featured beginning June 17, on every Sunday in July and August, bringing Cajun, Swing, Reggae, Jazz, Blues, and Sugar Beat to the winery from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. Bring your own gourmet picnic, and the winery will offer tasting. Reservations are required, and tickets are $30 per car.

 

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